Tales from an Italian kitchen

Pasta with leeks, mushrooms, thyme and soft cheese

Leeks are hard to come by in Rome, so when I do find some on a shelf or stall, there is even more reason to think: “Lovely leek.” Which is how Simon Hopkinson describes them in his book The Vegetarian Option, and an alliteration so neat and right that it stuck and now flashes up every time I see one. And, because thoughts are like dominoes, lovely leeks could well remind me of the lovely Linda mug I shared a desk with for a week or so, many years ago; and of its owner, too, who was also lovely, with smooth hands (and a pot of hand cream on her desk) and a sister who was an optician in Barnes. It’s funny the things we remember.

Hopkinson also calls leeks the “softly softly” of the onion family, which isn’t just a good description of their flavour and nature, but is also a reminder of how to cook them for soups and sauces. Softly softly, and don’t forget slowly slowly. Which is where Hopkinson meets Anna Del Conte and her method for cooking leeks for pasta or rice. This is also great, because it feels like two favourite cookery writers are having a chat and swapping advice in my kitchen.

First, though, clean the leek, trim away the dark green end and roots, then split it lengthways, but not all the way, so it stays intact and fans out like a peacock’s tail, allowing all the grit to be washed away. This central split also means the leek then cuts easily into half moons.

Del Conte’s way starts the sliced leek in a mix of olive oil and butter, then, after lowering the heat (which is important), a piece of crumpled greaseproof paper is pressed on top. By doing this, the steam is trapped, closely, but without pressure, creating a highly effective, steamy braise under which leeks – and mushrooms, for that matter – soften and turn buttery in looks and flavour. Cooked this way, and seasoned generously with salt and black pepper, leeks and mushrooms provide a simple and tasty condiment for pasta both long and short, dried and fresh (most shapes work). Alternatively, stir a beaten mixture of soft cheese (robiola, Philadelphia or soft goat’s), grated parmesan and pasta cooking water into the vegetables, which makes for a more luscious version.

Simon Hopkinson calls the leeks the ‘softly softly’ of the onion family, which is also a reminder of how to cook them

To start, bring a pan of water to a boil for the pasta. Put 20g butter, four tablespoons of olive oil, a large cleaned and sliced leek and a pinch of salt in a deep saute pan, and cook, stirring, on a medium-low heat until the leek starts to wilt. Add 250g sliced mushrooms and a few sprigs of thyme, and cook, stirring, for a few minutes more. Now press a piece of greaseproof paper on top of the vegetables, turn down the heat and leave to braise/steam for 10-15 minutes, until the vegetables are tender and collapsed.

Salt the boiling water, stir, add 450g long dried pasta (linguine, tagliatelle, penne, fusilli …) and cook until al dente. Meanwhile, if you would like to add cheese to the vegetable mix, in a small bowl mix a heaped tablespoon each of soft cheese and parmesan, then stir in a little of the pasta cooking water to make a thick cream. Mix this into the vegetable pan.

When the pasta is done, drain, saving some more of its cooking water (or lift the pasta directly into the vegetables), and toss everything together until well coated, adding pasta water to loosen the texture, if you think it needs it.

This dish is a reminder of the value of pasta cooking water, well seasoned with salt and cloudy with starch that has seeped from the pasta as it boils. Here, it’s used both to loosen the cheese mixture and for the final mixing, when just a little (I find a small coffee or espresso cup full is a good measure – and vehicle – to carry the pasta water from pan to mixing pan) helps ease the consistency of the final dish.

You may want a bit more grated parmesan on top, a glass of wine, a second helping, a second glass of wine, some bread for wiping the dish, a green salad, more cheese and then paradise cake.